ATHENS
Sometimes you just get a feeling. A sixth sense for the second hand. Passing by block after block of disused industrial detritus and oily mechanics shops, on my way to Eleonas Market in Athens, I got that feeling. This was gunna be a good’un...
So what makes a ‘good’ flea market anyway? I suppose it just means whether or not it’s up your street, figuratively if not literally. For some, they’re a snapshot of a place where they can pick up a souvenir or two. For me, what I’m looking for when I travel is the same thing I long for when I’m at home: community. I’m not interested in bargains. I want stories.
You can tell from the moment you arrive in Eleonas that it’s filled with stories - because it’s filled with people. Lots and lots of people! It’s also massive. The whole thing is spread across two huge open-air areas and a colossal covered warehouse, but also spills into all the connecting roads between. Half of all this is stall tables and the other half is blankets on the ground, car boots and piles of boxes.
I begin digging in the main courtyard area where sought-after 1960s ceramics sit amongst day-to-day homewares, and parents pick out toys for their excited children. The atmosphere is busy but friendly, with plenty of families doing the rounds. I found lots of stalls selling old photographs so that kept me happy ploughing through them for a while.
There were so many interesting nicknacks and ornaments in between the more common sight of old books and electronic items. A couple of things stood out in particular: a cool transistor radio and an entire haul of vintage scientific and botanical prints. My bag was filling up quickly!
How amazing are these! This was really just the tip of the iceberg, and I spent many hours in a single section of the market. Look at the cool green rotary phone behind that gold transistor radio. I was overwhelmed, in a very good way. It was time for a pitstop…!
One of my favourite parts of this market is actually the little cafe in the centre, selling €1 chips and souvlaki through a hatch. It’s a great spot for people-watching so, with kebab smoke circling round myself and the other patrons, I took in the view.
It would be remiss here if I didn’t mention something quite unique about many, if not most, of the people I see: they’re refugees. Greece, of course, is where the majority of migrants and refugees fleeing conflicts in the Middle East arrive when they get to Europe. This market is five minutes walk from a refugee camp - one of the first ones in Athens. For the residents of this camp, the market is a lifeline of sorts where they can buy homewares at a fraction of the price of other markets, not to mention furniture and clothes and pretty much everything else except groceries.
It’s important to respect this. This market is not an opportunity to boost your eBay game. However, no-one wants to be treated like a charity case either and the market certainly doesn’t give off that vibe. It welcomes those who are there to browse and buy just like anyone else. It’s an opportunity to sit and chat, and enjoy the myriad of objects on offer.
One such object, and easily my favourite find of the day was a print (one of three) salvaged from an old driving school of a piston cross section. Such cool retro graphic design complete with red sticky labels. I should have got them all. Oh well - it’s an excuse to go back!
